General

The river Liffey divides Dublin into two distinct halves: the southside of the city and the north. The southside of the city traditionally has been the domain of Dublin's middle-classes and is more affluent than its northern counterpart.

The northern districts of Dublin never really recovered after being abandoned by the professional middle classes, who migrated south of the river or left for London after the Act of Union in 1801. Once home to Europe's worst city slum, times are changing, but gentrification is still a relatively slow process in comparison to the rate of development in areas south of the Liffey.

South of the River

South of the River A maze of cobblestone nooks and crooked crannies, between Dame Street and the Liffey, Temple Bar is still Dublin's most upwardly mobile area. In the 1980s, the district was scheduled to be demolished to make way for a vast bus station, but was saved by some last-minute planning decisions and became instead the focus of Dublin's urban regeneration scheme throughout the 1990s. Every turn uncovers more distinctive shops and another trendy arts centre. With music and television recording studios, the excellent Irish Film Centre and other media magnets, this is where Dublin's cultural heart is to be found. By night, visitors (and some Dubliners) gravitate towards Temple Bar and its environs to socialise. Here, above a former Viking settlement, they come to soak up the cafe culture or have a drink in one of the ever-growing number of bars and pubs. The atmosphere in the area has been much improved as a result of the decision to ban stag parties from the area on weekends; you'll still, however, find the streets and lanes thronged after dark.

South of the River The area around Temple Bar flows seamlessly into the historic heart of the city Dublin Castle is the former seat of British power and home to the Viceroys of Ireland. With its ornate dining hall, crystal chandeliers and prestigious State Rooms, the Castle still constitutes a powerful symbol of the British colonial presence even though today the Castle witnesses the inaugurations of the Presidents of Ireland. Also contained in the large Castle complex are the Crypt Art Centre and the marvelous Chester Beatty Library, one of the world's great treasure houses of Islamic and Oriental art. On the edge of the Castle lies the refurbished City Hall. The great domed atrium of the building – originally founded in the 18th century to house the Royal Exchange – is one the city's most beautiful and impressive spaces. Dublin Castle and the twin medieval cathedrals of St Patrick and Christchurch, are some of the oldest and most significant buildings in Dublin.